3D StructureScan Reviews Posted on February 15, 2017
The first 2 discussions will be my pro staff reviews and the last discussion will be Doctor Sonar's suggestions for interpretation and settings.
I produced this short video using sonar, down imaging and an Aqua-Vu to show you how I interpret sonar.
Click on image to view video
The first 2 discussions will be my pro staff reviews and the last discussion will be Doctor Sonar's suggestions for interpretation and settings.
It’s that time of the year, many are getting a new boat with electronics or are outfitting an existing boat with new electronics. Here are some things to think about when looking at purchasing new electronics. Use this as a checklist to help you make a educated decision.
And a few install tips are also thrown in.
Watch the short video to get an understanding why weeds are important for fishing.
Side imaging produces nice images of how boulders really look like and I use it to find key spots that I miss with 2D and down imaging sonar.
This image is a boulder reef. On this image the biggest boulders are next to smooth bottom. This also means there is probably a dropoff next to the boulders. Walleyes like transitions, big boulders and dropoffs so I have 3 key ingredients to start my hunt for groceries for my famous fish tacos. I don't see any fish but fish are difficult to see in boulders since they also show up as white.
This link will show an Aqua-Vu video of the transition. watching it confirms it is a good spot and helps understand the side imaging
Ever wonder what to do when you are slowly moving jig or rig fishing and lose the fish on sonar?
I had these fish near weeds located with down sonar (2D and down imaging).
If they disappear I look at the side imaging on a different screen to see if they are left or right. Like this image.
I place the cursor on the fish on the side imaging and create a waypoint and then move the boat to the fish before they move too far. It is easy, once you catch a few fish this way you add it to your fishing tools.
Sorry, but it doesn’t work well. We can only make educated guesses.
I was looking for walleyes in the fall and noticed these nice fish at the depth I fish plus they were close to the bottom which is typical for walleyes.
But you bass anglers should read this tutorial so you can catch more fish.
I used small minnows and didn’t get bit so I up-sized to giant chubs (7 inches) and bass anglers know how much smallmouth love big minnows and I got bit. My Go Pro works well for selfies.
I decided to put down the camera to see if any walleye were mixed in and nope, just lots of bass. So, I smoked them and released them so someone else can have the same pleasure.
I often get asked how I find "fishy" spots. This screenshot shows many starting spots for smallmouth or walleye since they both love rocks.
Doc’s Opinion
The big boulder (yellow circle) is too far from the other rocks, if it was closer it would be my #1 pick since the biggest walleye and bass often prefer the largest boulder.
1st choice is the red circle with scattered boulders near lots of rock.
2nd is the green circle for the same reason.
3rd is the black circle since it is a point.
Just another reminder to not speed down the lake to the "next hotspot". I usually keep the boat at 20-24 mph and pay attention to the sonar because fish will show up in places that I don't suspect. Rule of thumb for walleyes is they don't follow the rules.
I was traveling at about 22 mph when these fish showed up on a drop and slowed to 3.7 mph. Notice the cursor is on the fish. I marked a waypoint and caught supper. I caught the walleye near the bottom and I am not sure what the suspended fish were since they didn't bite. They could have been walleye.
Understanding bottom hardness is vital to understanding and catching walleyes.
Sometimes it is easy like this image with the hard bottom on the left.
I use Auto-sensitivity on my Humminbird and Lowrance models almost always. It works so well we never notice when it adjusts. Auto-Sensitivity mainly adjusts for depth. We need a higher sensitivity in deeper water since the sound that returns as you go deeper becomes weaker. A manual setting of sensitivity for 10 feet to get the optimal image would not show fish at 100 feet and this is where Auto-Sensitivity shines.
I’ll use examples from this summer when there were a lot of microorganisms in the water so you see a funny screen to help understand what is happening when the auto-sensitivity is working.
The first image shows rapid depth changes at a speed of 30 mph. Notice the clutter clears when I go shallow (green arrows).
The next image shows the suspended clutter change as I go up the slope. At the same time as the clutter changes, the bottom changes (green arrow). The Auto-Sensitivity has decreased the sensitivity at a certain depth. It is important to understand this when you are trying to determine bottom hardness as walleyes are often found by finding hard bottom.
The 3rd image shows what appears to be harder bottom on the right side of the image but this is caused mainly by the Auto-Sensitivity increasing the sensitivity as I go deeper (green arrow).
Harder bottom has a wider bottom band and stronger colors like the yellow. It is easily to fooled by this image and think there is a transition from soft to hard bottom which walleyes often prefer.
Auto-Sensitivity is a great feature but understanding its limitations is important for hunting hard bottom which can result in you greasing the pan for walleye more often.